We were nearing the end of our stay in Spain with one place left to visit: San Sebastian (Donostia in Basque). A trip along the beautiful Atlantic coast was reminiscent of NZ’s coastlines but we were still plagued by unseasonably cold and windy weather so stopping on the beach was not pleasant. Before we get there however we had to visit a sculpture park, Chillida Leku. Here, this mans amazing sculptures made out of huge pieces of steel or stone were displayed on about 40 acres. His design plans were interesting to see, but how he bent the steel and made almost invisible joins belies belief.
However getting to San Sebastian was the object of the exercise and once there it was the usual – no where to park except in terribly expensive car parks ($42 per day). But we had no choice if we wanted to investigate San Sebastian. This was a popular beach place and for a moment we thought we weren’t going to get accommodation as the first place was full but luckily the second one we tried had one room left. It was a Saturday after all and the place was full of people visiting. Because our park was so far away from the accommodation it was back to the plan we had done once before – toilet bag and change of undies in a small backpack and food to the hotel. (Note Jocelyn sunbathing in a raincoat on a seat in San Sebastian - that has been the story of the weather on the Atlantic coast)
We went investigating but once again the Pinchos bars beaconed for lunch and the patisserie shops had cakes to die for – I just had to have a pastry layered cake with Crème Anglaise and fresh cream between pastry layers finished with crunchy caramel topping. We had learned that in Spain that eating and drinking at the bar is cheaper than either at tables or on the terrace. But here the coffees were half the price inside to outside so we ate at the bar. I think the same happens in Italy so we are prepared. The main reason seems to be that if you eat at the bar and drop your rubbish on the ground, they can serve and clear without leaving behind the bar.
San Sebastian’s beaches were pleasant beaches with mild surf and people were trying to soak up the sun rays they could catch whilst hiding from the wind. San Sebastian was simply full of people at night. Bars overflowed into the streets and others were wandering enjoying a pleasant enough evening in the old town area. It was compact and easy to get around with a lot of pedestrian only areas.
It was goodbye Spain the next day. On the way out we passed through the last fishing village before the border and stopped for a coffee. Here we were in for a treat as a traditional Basque singing competition was being held. We stayed around to listen to a couple of the groups sing all dressed in traditional garb (did you know that the espadril (a rope soled shoe) originated in Basque).
However getting to San Sebastian was the object of the exercise and once there it was the usual – no where to park except in terribly expensive car parks ($42 per day). But we had no choice if we wanted to investigate San Sebastian. This was a popular beach place and for a moment we thought we weren’t going to get accommodation as the first place was full but luckily the second one we tried had one room left. It was a Saturday after all and the place was full of people visiting. Because our park was so far away from the accommodation it was back to the plan we had done once before – toilet bag and change of undies in a small backpack and food to the hotel. (Note Jocelyn sunbathing in a raincoat on a seat in San Sebastian - that has been the story of the weather on the Atlantic coast)
We went investigating but once again the Pinchos bars beaconed for lunch and the patisserie shops had cakes to die for – I just had to have a pastry layered cake with Crème Anglaise and fresh cream between pastry layers finished with crunchy caramel topping. We had learned that in Spain that eating and drinking at the bar is cheaper than either at tables or on the terrace. But here the coffees were half the price inside to outside so we ate at the bar. I think the same happens in Italy so we are prepared. The main reason seems to be that if you eat at the bar and drop your rubbish on the ground, they can serve and clear without leaving behind the bar.
San Sebastian’s beaches were pleasant beaches with mild surf and people were trying to soak up the sun rays they could catch whilst hiding from the wind. San Sebastian was simply full of people at night. Bars overflowed into the streets and others were wandering enjoying a pleasant enough evening in the old town area. It was compact and easy to get around with a lot of pedestrian only areas.
It was goodbye Spain the next day. On the way out we passed through the last fishing village before the border and stopped for a coffee. Here we were in for a treat as a traditional Basque singing competition was being held. We stayed around to listen to a couple of the groups sing all dressed in traditional garb (did you know that the espadril (a rope soled shoe) originated in Basque).
I was happy to be going back to France as the driving is easier; the drivers are more patient, you don’t find an Audi up your rear end and beeping to get past. You don’t get cars flying past you when the open road speed is 90km/hr (I might add these were mainly Audis, Mercedes and BMW’s – it seems like having a flash car in Spain is a license to drive like a madman). Spain generally is more hectic and people less polite and less aware of you. Service is often carried out without a hello, goodbye or even looking at you during the transaction. The French are just so polite in comparison. Spain seems a bit like NZ, everyone going somewhere in a hurry.
Welcome Francia- First stop, La Rhune mountain which is on the French Spanish border and a rack and pinion train takes you up for spectacular views (yeah right). It was a nice day at the bottom but by the time we got to the top it would have been close to zero with vicious winds and clouds rolling over us. Luckily there was a café with HOT drinks to warm us up while we waited for the next train down. The views once out of the cloud were great.
St Jean de Luz and then Biarritz were again busy with holiday makers and very similar to San Sebastian but smaller and slower paced. Once again people made shelters on the beach to escape the wind and soak up the suns rays. Only a few hardy children ventured into the water or wetsuited surfers. Mark is coming to terms with the fact that he won’t be having a swim in the Atlantic before we leave it.
Even though the weather forecast was for rain in the Pyrenees, we continued with our plan to traverse the Pyrenees from the Atlantic to the Oriental Pyrenees. Our trip from Biarritz took us through the Basque Pyrenees that is renowned for its food. So we had to stop along the way to buy different samplings of their major productions. The famous cheese Iraty D’Ossau, a cheese made from sheep’s milk was a must try and proved to be worth the stop(It disappeared real quick). All along the way local farms advertised their cheese sales and other local artisanelles offered their canned confit and terrines as well as comfitures. We obliged by buying a pimento jelly and a canned terrine. We have not found the illusive Gateau Basque, but will endeavour to hunt it down and try it out.
Continuing into the Ossau valley where we hope to mountain bike and do some walks we started to experience the real hills of the Pyrenees. Until then the hillsides and valleys had largely been farmed. Here it was more like the alps, forest covered peaks, rivers and lakes. A great place to put roots down for a couple of days. Well at least we thought so. As it turns out it is becoming a bit like ground hog day here; “I think it looks like rain” being the mantra each morning. We went for a drive and ended up in the clouds driving on dangerously steep roads and I thought “we could go over the sides and no-one would know where we are”. But the sheer awesomeness of the waterfalls cascading down the mountains and the cloud shrouded mountainsides disappearing above remind you that you are in a potentially dangerous environment and sends shivers down your spine. With the prospect of rain yet again tomorrow I think it will be another driving day just viewing the Pyrenees as we are not equipped to tramp or ride in the wet and cold (temps as low as 11 degrees brrrrrh, and that is out of the wind).
The next day is another ground hog day but it didn’t just look like rain, it was raining. We had decided to drive the Pyrenees if it was raining so off we went. This is the most amazing place on many fronts. The ranges are several layers deep and we climbed over pass after pass and along side us on every pass were crazy Frenchmen (of all ages) cycling to the top where a ride waited to take them back. We are talking serious heights (2,000m +) and serious grades (13%). We saw a group of ladies, most looked 60+ tackling a 1700m pass and lots of older men as well on the others. It is truly amazing the numbers of cyclists in the Pyrenees. It was in the Pyrenees that we again came across the camper vans and groups of bikers touring; this is indeed a popular are for tourists but it is a pity that most things are still closed during the week or don’t open till July.
We feel very French with our chilli bin ad picnic supplies so that we can stop and have a brew and a bite along the way. The French are really into roadside picnics (and picnics in general) and even take chairs and tables with them to set out when they find the right roadside spot. However we saw one couple taking this picnic idea to the extreme. Sat at their table, they picnicked in the rain whilst they each held an umbrella over themselves and the food. Now I ask you??? We are not that extreme but are really enjoying our picnic stops.
We wandered back over the Spanish border for a look at the Pyrenees from the Spanish side and it was here that we found where the Spanish get into the outdoors and active lifestyle. There was river rafting and canyoning, mountain biking, motocross, trekking opportunities at several places here as well as many deserted ski fields along the way. Village after village have chalets by the millions that the Spanish obviously come to for weekends and holidays. Accommodation is easy to find here (not like other places we have been to) and camping is popular. This was echoed on the French side of the border as well. It is said that in summer the Parisians leave Paris to the tourists and now we know where they go – the Pyrenees. We suspect the Spanish do the same.
We finally saw the skies clear and the temperatures rise to 23 degrees at which time we stopped by a river for a picnic. We continued on up towards another pass on our way towards Andorra and got a glimpse of the unpredictability of mountain weather. We saw the temperature drop from 23 degrees to 8 in a matter on a couple of minutes as we drove straight into a thunderstorm with hail that was so thick it formed drifts on the road. Then at the top of the pass the road was dry and temperature climbed to 15 degrees again. Truly freaky stuff.
Again we signs of major development in Spain. In one village Mark spotted 5 cranes in a row erecting new apartment building in one town. We came across major new roading initiatives covering km after km. These guys don’t do things by halves when it comes to roads.
Our target was a little town about 10km from the Andorra border, from where we would investigate Andorras tax free shopping amongst other things.
Welcome Francia- First stop, La Rhune mountain which is on the French Spanish border and a rack and pinion train takes you up for spectacular views (yeah right). It was a nice day at the bottom but by the time we got to the top it would have been close to zero with vicious winds and clouds rolling over us. Luckily there was a café with HOT drinks to warm us up while we waited for the next train down. The views once out of the cloud were great.
St Jean de Luz and then Biarritz were again busy with holiday makers and very similar to San Sebastian but smaller and slower paced. Once again people made shelters on the beach to escape the wind and soak up the suns rays. Only a few hardy children ventured into the water or wetsuited surfers. Mark is coming to terms with the fact that he won’t be having a swim in the Atlantic before we leave it.
Even though the weather forecast was for rain in the Pyrenees, we continued with our plan to traverse the Pyrenees from the Atlantic to the Oriental Pyrenees. Our trip from Biarritz took us through the Basque Pyrenees that is renowned for its food. So we had to stop along the way to buy different samplings of their major productions. The famous cheese Iraty D’Ossau, a cheese made from sheep’s milk was a must try and proved to be worth the stop(It disappeared real quick). All along the way local farms advertised their cheese sales and other local artisanelles offered their canned confit and terrines as well as comfitures. We obliged by buying a pimento jelly and a canned terrine. We have not found the illusive Gateau Basque, but will endeavour to hunt it down and try it out.
Continuing into the Ossau valley where we hope to mountain bike and do some walks we started to experience the real hills of the Pyrenees. Until then the hillsides and valleys had largely been farmed. Here it was more like the alps, forest covered peaks, rivers and lakes. A great place to put roots down for a couple of days. Well at least we thought so. As it turns out it is becoming a bit like ground hog day here; “I think it looks like rain” being the mantra each morning. We went for a drive and ended up in the clouds driving on dangerously steep roads and I thought “we could go over the sides and no-one would know where we are”. But the sheer awesomeness of the waterfalls cascading down the mountains and the cloud shrouded mountainsides disappearing above remind you that you are in a potentially dangerous environment and sends shivers down your spine. With the prospect of rain yet again tomorrow I think it will be another driving day just viewing the Pyrenees as we are not equipped to tramp or ride in the wet and cold (temps as low as 11 degrees brrrrrh, and that is out of the wind).
The next day is another ground hog day but it didn’t just look like rain, it was raining. We had decided to drive the Pyrenees if it was raining so off we went. This is the most amazing place on many fronts. The ranges are several layers deep and we climbed over pass after pass and along side us on every pass were crazy Frenchmen (of all ages) cycling to the top where a ride waited to take them back. We are talking serious heights (2,000m +) and serious grades (13%). We saw a group of ladies, most looked 60+ tackling a 1700m pass and lots of older men as well on the others. It is truly amazing the numbers of cyclists in the Pyrenees. It was in the Pyrenees that we again came across the camper vans and groups of bikers touring; this is indeed a popular are for tourists but it is a pity that most things are still closed during the week or don’t open till July.
We feel very French with our chilli bin ad picnic supplies so that we can stop and have a brew and a bite along the way. The French are really into roadside picnics (and picnics in general) and even take chairs and tables with them to set out when they find the right roadside spot. However we saw one couple taking this picnic idea to the extreme. Sat at their table, they picnicked in the rain whilst they each held an umbrella over themselves and the food. Now I ask you??? We are not that extreme but are really enjoying our picnic stops.
We wandered back over the Spanish border for a look at the Pyrenees from the Spanish side and it was here that we found where the Spanish get into the outdoors and active lifestyle. There was river rafting and canyoning, mountain biking, motocross, trekking opportunities at several places here as well as many deserted ski fields along the way. Village after village have chalets by the millions that the Spanish obviously come to for weekends and holidays. Accommodation is easy to find here (not like other places we have been to) and camping is popular. This was echoed on the French side of the border as well. It is said that in summer the Parisians leave Paris to the tourists and now we know where they go – the Pyrenees. We suspect the Spanish do the same.
We finally saw the skies clear and the temperatures rise to 23 degrees at which time we stopped by a river for a picnic. We continued on up towards another pass on our way towards Andorra and got a glimpse of the unpredictability of mountain weather. We saw the temperature drop from 23 degrees to 8 in a matter on a couple of minutes as we drove straight into a thunderstorm with hail that was so thick it formed drifts on the road. Then at the top of the pass the road was dry and temperature climbed to 15 degrees again. Truly freaky stuff.
Again we signs of major development in Spain. In one village Mark spotted 5 cranes in a row erecting new apartment building in one town. We came across major new roading initiatives covering km after km. These guys don’t do things by halves when it comes to roads.
Our target was a little town about 10km from the Andorra border, from where we would investigate Andorras tax free shopping amongst other things.
2 comments:
What do you mean you won't be going for a swim on th Atlantic coast, you've been to both Mundaka and Biarritz both Europes premier surf breaks, so you could have hired a wetsuit, and even given surfing ago!!!!!!!
Father
didnt ur mother ever teach you not to stick your head in strnge places??? And though you lost that gosh damnd awful hat!!!
love to both
Post a Comment