Farewell Belgium

We went to a Boulangerie for dinner as it offered the chefs choice of meats as a plate. That was interesting way to experience a variety of local cured meats, a specialty of this Belgian Ardennes region we were in and very tasty to boot.

On the day we were to leave we had to wait till 2 o’clock for a bus out of La Roche back to the train at Marloie. But it was an interesting morning to be in La Roche as the place came alive. Motorcyclists from all over the Netherlands and Belgium arrived at La Roche seeking a day out in the sun. Add to that the excitement of a the Belgium equivalent of a short Tour De France passing through La Roche and a Hill Time Trial Event and the place was buzzing. There were more support vehicles in terms of sponsors, security, police, news media and cameras and race officials than cycles in the cycle race. We duly parked ourselves at a table outside the pub on the roadside with our B& B host and with hundreds of other people lining the streets ready for the cycles to go past. And they did – 2 seconds and it was all over. But the experience was great.

After that we hit the rail to Namur. A great place to visit as there were no tourists, just the gentle hum of the locals in the city. From here we could catch the TGV to Paris the next morning and hence the reason for the stop. But on a glorious day – 22 degrees, we wandered the old Citadel and streets where locals relaxed on a sunny Sunday afternoon. Set along the confluence of two rivers it was a charming city. For dinner I had the best salade Niciose ever and Mark had a salad with Lardons (pieces of bacon) in a mustard sauce whilst enjoying one more belgium beer – that made by the trappist monks – before we left Belgium for France and the wine experience. Interestingly we got to the hotel in time to watch the end of the cycle race which was won by a Spaniard.

Early rise to catch the Thalys to Paris as we wanted a TGV(fast train) experience before we got our hire car.

The Belgium experience is chance to change style of beers for a brief period before we hit the wines of France. We decided to go for the Belgium big four food experience; moules(mussels), beer, frites(they claim they invented these) and chocolate. Mark enjoyed the mussels(or should I say pipis as they were tiny- see the spoon above with four mussels on) but tasty, frites were average, chocolate was lovely but no better than NZ makers but the beer continues to delight as I enjoyed a Leffe Blond with my dinner. Mark ruined our desire for a pure Belge experience by ordering a Danish (Tuborg) beer and a pizza for lunch.

Because our rail ticket was for a whole day we were able to stop at Antwerp on our way through to Brussels. We stashed our bags in a locker at the station and went exploring. Antwerp was well worth the stop. After Amsterdam it was a delightfully clean and well organized city. A stunningly designed rail station with square light towers that spanned several floors and easy to use elevators suggested we were arriving at a well organized and cared for city, And that is what we did find. We strolled down the Meir (a walking precinct that ran the length of the central area )and enjoyed the lovely shops with a definite fashion theme. But as with Amsterdam, any thoughts that we had beaten the tourist rush in Europe were dispelled as bus loads of tourists continued to appear from everywhere.

The old architecture in Antwerp is charming with buildings of character filling the skyline views with ornate towers and frontages with incredible masonary work. It was a pity that the city had let tower blocks spring up in the old area but we did enjoy the clever architecture we did see.

Onwards to Brussels where an old bedraggled Central Station was a let down after Antwerp. From the train we were able to view the windows of the red light district as we arrived. Same set up as Amsterdam – is prostitution legalized here as well? What awaited us was a modern city however the modern architecture was much more constrained than Antwerp with a predominance of rectangular buildings made of a faded brown brick. The Grote Markt did house some amazing old buildings and interestingly, around the scaffolding of one of these large old building that was under repair were shrouds that depicted what the finished building would like when renovations were complete. We had also seen this in Utrecht. And yet again busloads of tourists walked across out paths in the Grote Markt and surrounds. But it would appear that Brussels is used to far more tourists than this as the number of eating places that were open were far from full and restaurant maitre d’s were out front aggressively seeking business. I CANT WAIT TO LEAVE THE CITIES AND TOURISTS BEHIND (oh that’s right we are tourists too).

Well we left the cities far behind. A train towards Luxembourg from Brussels dropped us ( an hour and a half later ) in the middle of no-where at a place called Marloie (still in Belgium). From Marloie we needed to catch a bus that was still 35 minutes away. So we wandered the streets of this village till we found the Taverna. Here we had a coffee whilst we watched the old men in the village supping their beers and playing a version of Euchre amidst a cloud of smoke. It reminded me of what it was like when my poppa on the Swiss side had his mates over to play cards many years back now.

The purpose of this diversion was to go to the outdoor area of Belgium, where there are hills and forests and mountain biking tracks. Our bus wound its way down this picture postcard valley to a small town that had similarities to Queenstown 50 years ago called La Roche en Ardenne. It was laid out alongside a river with tree clad hills climbing away from either side. It had been a while since we had seen real hills and we were now going to tackle them on a bike.

We found a little B & B in and old renovated terraced house and proceeded to get to know the lovely but unusual couple that run the place. Still getting used to this smoking thing as people still smoke indoors and in eateries. Also the numbers that smoke are huge. And yes our hostess smokes like a train with the smokers cough to go with it. But I don’t think we will die of second hand smoke in the short time we are away. But any prospective travelers – be warned. These European countries are not nanny states that control all aspects of people’s lives. If they want to kill themselves so be it. And still no helmets on bikes or scooters on the road.

We spent the next morning exploring the mountain bike tracks and the area on two very comfortable bikes given they were hired. We saw forests, farms working and explored tiny villages along the way. But first we needed to get to the top of a 200m climb straight up – so that got the heart rate up – but after that it was very gentle terrain being some off road and some on roads. All this exercise was necessary because I had been coveting a cake shop and needed an excuse to indulge in the most divine pear cake and coffee for lunch. The Boulangeries and Patisseries are just so enticing with their offerings laid out sumptuously in the shop windows. The croissants that I had for breakfast were the best ever, the butter nearly dripping out of the crisp flakey crust. Forget dying from lung cancer from second hand smoke, I will die from a cholesterol related heart attack.

We have fallen in love with the Belgium Blond beers – the Leffe and Ciney being our choice for lunch today. These guys really know how to make a beer. The local shop has a board with heaps of various beer bottles imbedded in and with a sign saying 300+ varieties. And the ALCOHOL content is nearly double that in NZ. Alcohol and cholesterol!!!!

Out and about in Holland

Well we visited the red-light district. What a disappointment. It is a lurid and sleazy joint. Young girls, possibly eastern European, displayed themselves but the look on their faces easily showed the contempt they felt for what they were doing or possibly for the clients. There was little of the class act that I saw last time I was here. Some older ladies’ crude attempt at the dominatrix look finished it off for me. We were out of there. However Mark did want to check it out at night – so we went back and the scene was actually more alive with potential clients rather than tourist groups gawking. The groups of young men egging each other on were amusing and then there were the men on a mission. But it was interesting to see the girls being far more interactive with their potential clients and some much more classy acts.

We are finding it difficult to enjoy the food. We are nearly broodje’d out. Bread with cheese and cold meats are there for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Although there are restaurants from other countries and all the fast food chain restaurants that cover the rest of the world, the Dutch propensity for bread wins out in local cafes. And of course there are soups, friites, pancakes, and croquettes, all further evidence of the need for food to be filling rather than titillating to the taste buds. Saving ourselves for food in France. Good beer though.

Finding a place where several million people visit in a three month period, would suggest that it is a must see. And it was – forget the Ellerslie flower show, it bears no comparison to the Kuekenhoff gardens. Our senses were overrun with colour, texture and the mathematical beauty of one of nature’s most beautiful creations – flowers. Tulips were the central beauty but it was the displays and garden art showed them to their best on a gloriously sunny day.

Back in Amsterdam we visited the brilliantly constructed boat shaped, copper clad, green Nemo Science museum. We had fun playing with the more expected science exhibits, but as usual with the Dutch, their openness of attitude was highlighted by the out there teen sex education centre. They took participants through the pleasures of the sexual experience as well as the science behind, I found erogenous body zones that I did not know existed and was fascinated by their “Karma Sutra” style display of the various sexual positions using stick figures.

One of the highlights of our Netherlands experience was not lessened by the 5.30am start needed to get there; the Aalsmaar Flower Auction. This has to be seen to be believed. It is almost impossible to describe the speed and efficiency that flowers and plants can be sold and moved around the world. A computer, a large screen and a button is all that it takes for buyers to spend billions of euros a year on flowers. On the large screen the bidding clock counted down so quickly that it was almost impossible for us novices to take in the lots available, the quality info on the plants and who the grower was before the bidding was over and done with. The buyers had their own screen and a red button to bid with. To further complicate the process, each bidding room had two to three screens holding simultaneous auctions that buyers alternated between. It was noticeable that this was a male domain, only seeing one woman bidder out of approx 200. Mark is hoping that visiting this centre will allow him to claim the costs as a work expense – yeah right.


The auction is really the short end of the straw. What happens after this is truly an amazing sight. Men in little electric carts move at breakneck speed breaking up the lots to go out to the various buyers. It was impossible to believe that these carts pulling trolleys of flowers did not collide in spectacular fashion given the numbers and speed of the various carts that were flying in all directions. These flowers were in and out of that place as quickly as possible and all for export.

From there it was an hour on a bus back to Amsterdam and then an hour and a bit over two trains followed by 45 mins on a bus to get to the Hoge Veluwe National park where 1800 white Raleigh twenty styled bikes awaited visitors. This is the Netherlands only National Park and where else in the world would you find bike trails through a park fully tar sealed. We had a ball terrorizing the more sedate bicyclists on the trails but we were there with another purpose; to visit the Kroger Mueller Museum and sculpture park in the middle of 4000 hectare park. This museum captured our hearts as we were taken on a journey through shape, styles and colour that artists from all over the world had produced. We were so enthralled that we forgot the time and had 15mins to travel 5 km back to catch the bus that only left hourly. Picture if you will two mad kiwis traveling at breakneck speed on their Raleigh 20’s along these tracks back to the bus stop. We made it with a minute or two to spare.


Then it was back on the bus for 45 mins, then onto the train to Utrecht, one of the oldest town centres in the Netherlands. Unfortunately were too late too go through the old churches and had to settle with outside views only. But this town has such a different feel to Amsterdam, being cleaner and friendlier. It was hard to take in the full Utrecht experience as the first rain of our trip arrived and saw us seek refuge in a friendly restaurant eating Mustard soup and what else but Broodje and cheese. Wending our way back to the station past the canal restaurants and lovely old buildings was a lovely end to a truly full on day. We had our best nights sleep so far that night as we prepared to leave for Belgium the next day. We farewelled our lovely hotel manager after yet another breakfast of coffee, bread, cheese and cold meat.

We have landed

AMSTERDAM - WE HAVE LANDED

Well Korean airlines was a great way to fly. The service and comfort is first class. However there is one thing that leaves a bit to be desired and that is their ideas of entertaining movies – slept through them all. However this shortfall was more than made up for with a night at the Hyatt. The sleep was long, the shower delicious and then there was breakfast. Having woken up early we checked out the gym for an hour or so thinking a workout would alleviate any jet lag. Well, were we pleased we did as we would have had too many guilt feelings to enjoy the truly decadent breakfast that was on offer. Pastries, waffles, breads, cereals and fruits, cooked English and Korean food, cold meats, cheeses, egg any way you wanted - cooked in front of you, but my favourite had to be the glorious Salmon cooked or smoked. But most memorable of all was the look you in the eye, good morning with smiles from all staff in the restaurant, a feature of female Korean service we had noticed on the plane.

Waddling to the airport, the prospect of another 11 ½ hours of flying was not too daunting as Amsterdam beckoned. Although at 11,000 m we could see that Siberia is as inhospitable as its reputation, frozen lakes and rivers with only the green highlights from the trees in the forest breaking the gloom. Mark was on cloud nine (excuse the pun) looking down at St Petersburg, the Copenhagen-Sweden bridge, wind farms in the sea and canals as we approached Amsterdam.

The train from Schipol to Amsterdam central was as efficient as expected and then the number 4 tram dropped us right outside our hotel, an authentic Netherlands terraced house experience. First challenge was to navigate the at least 45 degree inclined stairs, that were narrower than your foot, with bags in tow. I get vertigo every time I come to descend them. But out we do go with anticipation of what Amsterdam has to show us.

Our Hotel is close to most major attractions and because we were awake early, we went for a run in the brisk morning air and got our bearings and investigated the lay of the land. The Van Gogh museum was the first port of call and although not art aficionados we found his paintings were a delight to view close up (while we negotiated our way around and in front of the throng of other tourists and school parties).

One of the biggest challenges to date is staying alive, as several times the left hand drive cars have turned up on our side of the road unexpectedly (or was that us on the wrong side). Luckily Amsterdam drivers are patient and used to unthinking tourists and appreciate that the pedestrian always has right of way as a life comes first.

First impressions of Amsterdam remind me that it is the denim capital of the world. Casual dress rules; jeans, jackets and scarves. The people appear relaxed as they occupy the local corner cafes drinking rather good beers if I may say so myself. However the outside tables with everyone facing towards the road is rather amusing; they are like an audience for all that passes by. Getting used to cats sitting on bars, bar tenders and patrons smoking and dogs inside took us back a few years but this along with no helmets on bikes or scooters remind us of what a nanny state we live in. Relaxed living is an art these guys seem to have mastered. One that Mark and I are learning to adjust to very easily, and I say this as we sit supping beer eating dinner at the corner café watching a beautiful girl in high heeled boots and tight skirt mount her bike and ride off easily.

Speaking of bikes – and they are just everywhere (including locked upside down against bridge railings) – one of the fascinating aspects here is that the Dutch go to a lot of trouble to stop their bikes being stolen. In NZ we only try to deter

the “honest” crooks fro

m stealing bikes. Over here they go to a lot of trouble to stop their bikes being stolen – even though most of them are at most 3-speed and quite old. Often he locks seem to be worth more than the bikes and they lock scooters and motor bikes as well.

Are we there yet???

Well 6 days to go. We are in the final throes of finishing off work commitments before launching into the packing on Thursday night. Therese is kindly taking us up to Auckland airport early Saturday morning where we will board a Korean Airline flight to Amsterdam.

We are just finalising our means of contact - obviously this blog is the best way to keep up with where we are, as we have no idea where we will be or when.

In Amsterdam we have booked a quaint old hotel called the Prinsenhof. It has stairs so steep that your luggage is taken up by an electric pulley system. They say the rooms are small but I think that is a feature of Europe, maximizing the use of space.

We have also booked our last three days in Italy on the Amalfi coast in a hotel called Hotel La Pergula just out of Amalfi itself. Looks quaint with great views.

But apart from those bookings we are footloose and fancy free and will wander where the mood takes us.